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Monday, September 3, 2012

F-15E Strike Eagle 336 FS Seymour Johnson AFB





Kit Used: Tamiya F-15E Strike Eagle 
TAM60302 Now Out Of Production
 New # TAM60312
Decals Out Of Box
Paint Testors Gunship Gray FS36118
Glue: Tenax 7R & CA

The kit:
This kit is not for beginners. It contains more that 400 Parts. Metal Landing Gear, real rubber tires, 2 pilot figures w/two different arm positions. Mk20 Rockeye Bombs, centerline fuel tank, 4 AIM 9 sidewinders, lantrin and navigation pods, Gun, open able Nose cone, and access panel, Detailed gun and bay. Detailed Cockpit And Detailed Afterburner Nozzles.

When I went to my First IPMS Contest In Las Vegas, NV. I saw a model of An F-15E Strike Eagle that just knocked my socks off. This model had all nose access Panels Open, Lights in the cockpit and Just was Awesome!!! He did place 1st in the Category. This model inspired me to build one somewhat just like it. At the time I couldn’t afford the nice Tamiya kit So I waited for my tax refund and bought one. When I opened the model I was just amazed at the level of detail and how many parts where in the kit. My First Tamiya Kit. After that kit I stopped buying the Monogram, Revell, and other cheap kits.

 I started building the kit in April 1998. When I finally finished the model was OCT 19th 1999, three days before the Gathering in Ogden, UT 1999. I was constantly attending Models contests but never placing 1st. When the judging was finished I was pleasantly surprised to find I took 1st in the 1/32 scale detail jet category. Wow that was Cool, finally I did it 1st place. I’ve not competed since. I am planning to compete in one of the Tamiya Cons here in the near future with my new F-15E I’m building now.

I’m currently finishing the Tamiya 1/32 Scale F-15C For the Show Con 2007(Formally The Gathering)

Trumpeter 1/35 Mi-24 Hind

Here is a Kit I wanted to build ever since it’s announcement of it’s release. The Mi-24 Hind is one of my favorite aircraft in the world. I normally build Modern U.S. Jets. I like building Modern Russian Helicopters. This kit took me about 6 months to build, built it out of the box, which is very rare for me. I normally have to make some kind of change to the kit. I have purchased another one of these kits, but I’m not in a hurry to build that one. 

Here is what I used in the kit;
Trumpeter Mi-24 Hind 1/35th Scale TSM5103
Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Green Cap
Testors Russian interior Green/a little blue added
Testors Amour Sand for the base color
Testors Earth Brown
Testors Russian underside gray
Testors Olive Drab (Rotor Blades)



First off;
I started building the cockpit. The way I got the bluish green color was mixing a little blue into the Russian Interior Green, I used the Verlinden M-24 Hind Lock on for this model, it was a very good reference. This is where the blue green color came from. This took about a week and half to complete. I also pained the interior of the fuselage flat black to give the finished model a deep color look. Once I had the fuselage glued together I need to paint the underside if the canopy black, before I could glue it to the model. This will give you a better look in the cockpit when you are finished. I also like using the Bondo Spot putty, and apply Mr. Surfacer 500 over the putty to pill in any of the putties pours and imperfections, I also use Mr. surfacer for my primer coat.







  Now that I am ready to paint the hind, first I had to mask off the windows, this was done with the 3M Blue painters tape. The hardest part was getting the curvature of the windshield correct. Now I’m ready it paint. I took Testor’s Amour Sand for my base color, I sprayed it using my Paasche VL Airbrush. This I did a rough earth brown coating with my passche VL , Once that was done I took my Badger 100 Side feed and did the camo clean up.






Now it’s time to start the finish work;
Before I apply the decals, I like to use the Tamiya X-22 Clear for my gloss coat. Two reasons, 1) it does not start turning yellow. 2) it does not have a strong odor, and works well with the decal system I use. Now I’m ready for the decals. The decals use where for the kit. I use a 3 Step Process; 1) Micro Set to set the decal and being able to place it where it belongs, 2) Micro Sol, to soften and work the decal, And 3) Walters’ Solvaset to finalize its position. Now that the decals are done it’s time to finish the assembly, once the assembly is finished I weather the model using the artist oils found at Wal-mart, Michael’s and other art supply stores. For the Exhaust look I use Testors Model Master Metalizer.   





Now I load the weapons and I’m done.
Date Started: April 10th, 2006
Date Finished: January 23rd 2007







Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire Mk. IXc Build Part 1

Original Post May 2, 2011
The product I am reviewing is by far the most detailed model aircraft, out of the box, I have had the pleasure to build. Tamiya's 1/32 Spitfire Mk.IXc is based on the most iconic aircraft of the British Royal Air Force. Tamiya also has a Mk.VIII and Mk.XVIe variant available. I chose the Mk.IX because it resembles the aircraft flown in "The Battle of Brittain." I have a BF-109 that I am finishing that could be part of a display showing both planes.

The kit was purchased at Hobby-On http://www.hobby-on.com/1/32-scale/1/32-supermarine-spitfire-mk.ixc-aircraft-model/ for the lowest price of $100.98.

The kit has markings for three different aircraft. There are several manufacturers that carry alternative decals for the 1/32 Spitfire if you desire. With these three markings there are three different configurations to match. The customization options include wingtips, bomb racks, fuel tanks, air filters, exhausts, cowlings, wing bulges, rudders, wheels, gunsights, gun ports, and stabilizers. All of the flight surfaces can be moved due to hinges made from rod and photo-etch.

One of the revolutionary differences in this kit is the removable cowling held on by magnets. The cowling can be removed to show the full detail of the engine without losing the scale of the engine. The kit has a whopping 378 parts plus 2 sets of photo-etch. As you can see from the photo below is that there are a lot of parts that go into the set. Soon I will have posted the cockpit completed.

Cameron Corless

Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire Mk. IXc Part 2

Original Post May 9, 2011
It took me a while but I finally finished the cockpit. The only additions I have made are the wiring and placards. There are only a few things that Tamiya could have done better. I would like to see seat belts that are pre-painted as with Eduard. An oxygen hose was missing from the kit. I made an attempt to make one but instead I used the hose that is supposed to be connected to the pilot.




I was pleasantly surprised with the hinges in the kit. They were easy to use and worked well. One bit of advice when working on them is to add a little bit of glue on the photo etch so it does not move in the joint and does not pop back out. Make sure you trim the photo etch so it does not bind in the joint.
The rest of the build is going smoothly. The joints on the kit are near perfect. I will have to fix an error on my part by imprinting my finger print on the wing. That will take some time to repair. 


Next I will have the engine completed and am a bit apprehensive as I just finished a Verlinden engine that took too long to build. That puts me at step 43 out of 70.

Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire Mk. IXc Build Part 3

Original Post Aug 2, 2011

As you can tell from the dates of the posts, the engine took a lot of time to complete. I built the engine and added wires to spruce up the detail. After I finished building the engine, I put on the engine cowling. They had a lot of space around the panels. I attributed this to a few reasons, the wiring on top was too much for the space provided and the precision molding required building the framing before painting with an airbrush. I made a few changes and put it back together. The fit, as you can see from the photo, was alright.

After the building was complete and the painting done, I added a wash with artist oils and thinner. Next came the decals. Most worked well and the system for the emblems under the wing great when using Micro Sol. The yellow leading edge decals were hard to work with as well as the tips of the propellers. I would advise painting with insignia yellow instead.

Some of the options for the kit can be changed on the fly. Changing the landing gear is easier and better than expected. The prop comes off but I decided to leave it on as it does not reveal any details.

That pretty much concludes the build. I am hoping I wont be disappointed with future builds as they likely will not have the same quality. I think my next build is going to be a P-51 Mustang with a highly polished Alclad finish and an Aires cockpit. Cameron





 

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